Reduce the Friction: Making the Right Decision in the Mountains — Easier.

By Sarah MacGregor | AMGA Splitboard Guide, AIARE Avalanche Course Leader, Raide and Safeback Athlete

We’re nearing the end of a long day.

A storm is ripping. The blowing snow has numbed your face. Visibility is low. You can’t hear your partners through your hood. You’re breaking trail. Your heart rate is up, and you know your team is tired, getting cold, and is ready to get home. Checking the map is a good idea, but you choose not to because you’re pretty sure you’re on track. Plus, your hands are cold, and your gloves barely work with your phone. There is pressure to keep moving, so that's what you do.

Making wrong decisions in the mountains often isn't the result of not knowing what to do, but because doing the right thing is too inconvenient.

Reducing risk in the mountains isn’t just about knowledge; it’s about anticipating pressure and proactively designing your systems and routines so that the right decision becomes easier — before the pressure sets in.

Removing the barriers to doing the right thing also removes the excuses that can lead to bad outcomes. Over time, I’ve started to think of this as a systems problem: improve the system, and you improve the decision.

The goal is to design your gear, routines, and habits so that doing the right thing becomes the easiest option available.

Hi, I'm Sarah!

AMGA Splitboard Guide and AIARE Avalanche instructor

Here are the strategies I use to minimize decision-making barriers in the field: 1 | Make important tools accessible 2 | Keep weight low 3 | Manage discomfort before it becomes a distraction 4 | Prepare well before your ski day 5 | Design for the worst version of yourself 6 | Actively remind yourself of the bigger picture

1 | Make the right tools accessible before you need them

Think about something simple like ski crampons.

Ski crampons reduce your likelihood of slipping on a firm skin track - but if you have to take off your pack, dig past your lunch, yard-sale your layers, and reorganize everything afterward, they may stay buried in your pack even when using them can objectively reduce your risk.

If they’re somewhere you can grab quickly, like already clipped to a carabiner on your hip belt, suddenly the decision becomes easy.

This applies to any piece of safety equipment that either directly reduces risk or is used to evaluate terrain safety. The more steps something requires, the less likely it is to happen in the field. In the mountains, friction can win... so remove it.

Ropes: Before you’re on a windy, exposed ridge were falling would have high consequences - better yet, before you even leave the house - clip the rope to the outside of your pack, somewhere that you can easily reach it, like the gear loop on a hip belt. The rest of the rope stays coiled in a stuff sack at the bottom of your pack inside with a stopper knot at the end. If the lowest-risk choice requires a rope, it's right there to grab. No extra effort required. No excuses for not approaching the edge on a belay.

Avalanche tools: Quick deployment systems for avalanche tools, such as the , are another good example. Good equipment design removes friction before the decision even has to be made. If probing a suspect bridge over water, a crevasse, or a cornice lip could reduce uncertainty, you should probably probe. But if deploying your probe requires removing your pack and shuffling through it, there’s a higher chance you won’t bother.

The same goes for digging quick snow pits to test conditions, or putting on your harness before you’re in the terrain where security is uncertain. If your shovel is easy to access, or your harness is already on, you’re far more likely to actually use it. A lot of risk reduction comes down to making the safer choice the easiest one, and making the tool accessible before you need it.